The process of skin aging is a multifaceted one that results from a combination of genetic and environmental factors, leading to a decline in optimal skin antioxidant function. In general, we differentiate between two types of aging: intrinsic and extrinsic. Intrinsic aging occurs naturally over time and is believed to be determined by one’s genetic makeup, while extrinsic aging is largely influenced by environmental factors like exposure to sunlight and air pollution, as well as lifestyle choices such as diet and smoking. Often, extrinsic factors accelerate the natural aging process.

The effects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging can blend together, making it difficult to distinguish between the two.

Reactive oxygen species and antioxidants play crucial roles in maintaining the health of skin cells.

As skin cells undergo basic metabolic processes, they generate free radicals known as reactive oxygen species (ROS). Exposure to environmental factors like ultraviolet light and other stressors can also produce ROS, leading to DNA damage and inflammation that can cause skin diseases.

Antioxidants are molecules that can counteract ROS by donating or removing electrons, thereby neutralizing them and preventing them from causing further damage to the skin. While the body has its own internal antioxidant systems to scavenge harmful free radicals, these become less effective as we age, resulting in an imbalance and oxidative stress. Additionally, our internal DNA repair mechanisms become less efficient with age. When skin is subject to excessive DNA damage, these repair mechanisms can become overwhelmed, leading to skin cancer.

How Environmental Factors Impact the Skin

There is a wealth of evidence indicating that environmental factors can have significant effects on the health of our skin. Specifically, ultraviolet light – including both UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) – has long been known to cause skin aging and skin cancers.

More recent research suggests that other environmental factors, such as visible light (400-700 nm), infrared radiation (above 800 nm), and air pollution (including smog, ozone, and particulate matter), can also damage skin cells and cause oxidative stress, similar to the effects of UV light. These factors are now thought to contribute to premature skin aging and skin diseases.

Visible light and infrared radiation can cause similar damage to UVA, leading to breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis, thinning of the skin, loss of elasticity, wrinkling, and volume loss. Additionally, visible light and infrared radiation can stimulate melanocytes and worsen hyperpigmentation, particularly in darker skin types. Visible light can also trigger inflammatory skin conditions like actinic dermatitis, photoallergic skin reactions, and porphyria.

While ozone is unable to penetrate the skin, chronic exposure can deplete antioxidants and cause skin damage and inflammation. However, studies have shown that pre-treatment of the skin with antioxidants can help prevent sun damage. While conventional sunscreens offer protection against UVA and UVB, they do not protect against these other environmental aggressors, highlighting a gap in current sun protection and anti-aging strategies. Antioxidants can help fill this gap and provide a more comprehensive strategy for environmental protection. By boosting our own antioxidant mechanisms, topical and oral antioxidants may also improve intrinsic aging.

Topical antioxidants offer numerous benefits for the skin.

Our skin has an inbuilt protection system that naturally contains antioxidants such as vitamin E, catalase, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, and Vitamin C. However, UV exposure and the natural aging process deplete these antioxidants. While oral antioxidants can benefit the skin and body, it is unclear how much is needed to reach the skin. Applying topical antioxidants directly to the skin can replenish declining reserves, creating a reservoir that boosts our natural antioxidant mechanisms.

Regular application of topical antioxidant serums provides active protection against skin cancer, photo-aging, and inflammation. Antioxidants are multifunctional and prevent sunburn, stimulate collagen production, and improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots caused by environmental damage.

Topical antioxidants have additional benefits of stabilizing melanocytes and treating hyperpigmentation while promoting barrier lipid formation, improving skin barrier function and hydration. They are also anti-inflammatory and aid in the management of acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

It’s never too late to benefit from antioxidants. While they cannot treat skin cancers, they can prevent further DNA mutations and new skin cancers, and improve the appearance of dry, sun-damaged skin by boosting barrier lipid production and collagen repair.

Also read: How Stress Affects the Skin

What are the most effective topical antioxidants?

Topical antioxidants have been extensively researched and two of the best studied ones are vitamin C and vitamin E. The potency of an antioxidant is determined by its ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) value.

Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a highly potent antioxidant frequently used in skincare products. It is naturally present in the skin, but its levels decline with age and sun damage. Topically applied vitamin C can improve collagen production, wound healing, and inhibit melanin synthesis, resulting in reduced fine lines and wrinkles, lightening of dark spots, and targeting pigmentation. However, the correct formulation is essential to preserve its efficacy as vitamin C is unstable in light.

The optimal concentration of vitamin C in a product is 15%, which is comparable to the quantity found in the skin. Combination preparations with a lower dose of vitamin C and other antioxidants can increase the overall antioxidant potential of the product by improving stability. Some of these combinations include Phloretin, Vitamin E, and Ferulic acid.

Vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, is another well-studied skincare ingredient with potent antioxidant, natural moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It inhibits melanin production and can help with hyperpigmentation. Unlike vitamin C, it is best used in combination formulations.

Resveratrol, derived from the skin of red grapes, is both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. It is particularly suitable for reducing sun damage in patients with rosacea and sensitive skin. When used in combination, antioxidants work synergistically, multiplying their antioxidant potential.

Other potent topical antioxidants include green tea polyphenols, ferulic acid, phloretin, and silymarin.

In Summary

A significant challenge is incorporating these ingredients into skincare products while maintaining their stability and effectiveness over time. It’s important to note that not all products containing antioxidants are created equal. Having a higher concentration of antioxidants in a product doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better. There appears to be a limit to the concentration that should be included in a formulation, as anything beyond that may compromise its stability. Additionally, certain combinations may actually hinder rather than enhance the benefits of antioxidants. It’s crucial to use antioxidants alongside a good sunscreen and as part of a comprehensive anti-aging regimen.